从江侗族婚嫁绣花鞋的工艺技法及艺术特征

Craft Techniques and Artistic Characteristics of Dong People Embroidery Wedding Shoes

贵州从江侗族婚嫁绣花鞋是侗族传统服饰的重要组成部分,它的鞋型采用钩头船形,鞋头尖,呈三角形状,且微微往上翘,整个鞋型与船的流线外形相似,造型流畅而独特。在工艺技法上,婚嫁绣花鞋由侗族妇女手工制作,包括纳鞋底、鞋面制作和底面缝合3个部分。其中鞋底是由厚布片纳成的千层底,鞋面制作包括剪纸、粘布刺绣、锁梁、合成等工序。婚嫁鞋的色彩艳丽,鞋面常选用桃红、橘色、紫色等艳丽色彩的底布,以营造喜庆的氛围;图案纹饰主题鲜明,婚嫁绣花鞋的图案纹饰主题大多表现为"蝶恋花",表达出从江侗族妇女对家族人丁兴旺和世代绵延的祈求。

The embroidery wedding shoes of Guizhou Dong people is an important part of traditional Dong clothing.The shoe model looks like a hook boat,with toe tip and triangular shape,and slightly upturned,with the similar smooth and unique shape of ship modeling.In terms of craft techniques,embroidery wedding shoes are hand-made by Dong women,including the stitch sole,upper production and bottom stitching.The sole is made of thick pieces of cloth into the Melaleuca,the upper making procedures include paper cutting,sticky cloth embroidery,lock beam synthesis.To create a festive atmosphere,colorful uppers are often used in the background of bright colors of pink,orange,purple cloth with a pattern decoration of a clear theme,in most cases,theme of the performance of ＂Butterfly with flowers＂,which expresses the pray for family flourishing and generation extension from the Dong women.