饰用10K白金合金镍释放的研究(英文)

Nickel Release of 10 K White Gold Alloy for Jewelry

白色金合金饰品广泛使用镍作为漂白元素,可以获得较好的颜色和机械性能。但是镍是一个潜在的致敏元素。本文选择一种常用的所谓"无镍过敏"10 K 白金合金首饰材料,按照 EN1811 标准检测了不同加工条件和表面处理方式下的镍释放情况。结果表明,合金的镍释放率与其耐腐蚀性密切相关,同种合金材料采用不同的加工工艺和表面处理方式,镍释放率不同,呈现"两相区退火态+粗糙面>冷加工态+粗糙面>冷加工态+抛光面>淬火态+粗糙面>淬火低温回火态+粗糙面"的顺序; 尽管试验合金的镍释放率调整值满足镍指令"94/27/EC"的要求, 但绝大部分不能通过镍指令"2004/96/EC",尤其是在各种工艺条件下的实际镍释放率均明显超过两个镍指令中规定的阈值,说明用这种材料制作的饰品在使用过程中存在镍过敏风险,特别是对于穿刺饰品风险更大。

Nickel is widely used as a bleaching element in white gold alloys for jewelry, it helps to obtain good color and mechanical properties. Although master alloy suppliers promise the safety of their products, the nickel allergy cases caused by such white gold jewelries are reported now and then. The purpose of this study is to investigate nickel release rate of a so-called ＂No nickel allergy＂ 10 K white gold alloy extensively used for jewelry and its potential risk to cause nickel allergy. The samples were processed by different heat treatment conditions and surface treatment methods, their nickel release rate were tested according to EN1811 standard. The results show that nickel release rate is closely related to the corrosion resistance and .changes under different processing conditions even for the same material. The nickel release rate sequence （from big to little） is as follows： ＂annealing at the two-phase region with rough surface 〉 cold working with rough surface 〉 cold working with polishing surface 〉 quenching with rough surface 〉 quenching plus low temperature tempering with rough surface＂. Although the adjusted values of nickel release rate under various process conditions met the requirement in nickel Directive ＂94/27/EC＂, most of them fail to meet the requirement specified in ＂2004/96/EC＂ for piercing jewelry, and the actual values obviously markedly exceed both Directives. There would exist nickel allergy risk for jewelries made from this material, especially for puncture accessories