风浪谱模型在苏北辐射沙洲海域的应用研究

Application of spectral wave model in sea areas of radial sand ridges in northern Jiangsu Province

通过分析和比较几种常用的近岸波浪数值模式,选用了基于波能平衡方程和波作用守恒方程的近岸风浪谱模型,建立了苏北辐射沙洲海域的波浪传播计算数值模型,并对苏北辐射沙洲海域的波浪的传播过程进行数值模拟。模型能充分考虑外海波浪在传播的过程中受到风的影响,能够模拟波浪传播过程中的浅水变形、折射、破碎、底摩阻耗散以及由于风能输入、白浪耗散和波波相互作用等引起的能量的输入和转移等多重物理过程。将建立的模型的计算结果与经验公式计算结果进行比较分析,说明波浪在远距离的传播过程中,沿程的底摩阻耗散、风能输入以及波波非线性相互作用等物理现象的影响是不可忽略的,在苏北辐射沙洲海域采用近岸风浪谱数值模型对波浪的传播变形计算较为合适,模型可用于苏北辐射沙洲海域的促淤圈围工程的设计波浪要素的计算。

By analyzing and comparing several kinds of commonlyused numerical models for offshore waves and by using the spectral wave model based on the wave energy balance equation and wave action conservation equations,a numerical model for wave propagation in the sea areas of radial sand ridges in northern Jiangsu Province is established and employed to simulate the process of the wave propagation.The model can fully consider the influences of wind during the propagation of waves from the outer seas,and it can be employed to simulate the shallow deformation,refraction,breaking and bottom friction dissipation during the process of wave propagation as well as the multiple physical processes such as energy input and transfer induced by wind energy input,whitecapping dissipation and nonlinear wave-wave interaction.The comparison between the calculated results by the model and those by empirical formulae indicates that the influences of physical phenomena such as the bottom friction dissipation,wind energy input and nonlinear wave-wave interaction are not negligible during the long-distance propagation of waves.It is more appropriate to use the spectral wave model to calculate the wave propagation in the sea areas of radial sand ridges in northern Jiangsu Province.The proposed model can be adopted to calculate the design wave elements of the reclamation projects.