功能性针织面料的生产技术

Knitting technology of the functional knitted fabrics

从功能性针织面料的原料选择、织造技术、后整理工艺3个方面论述其生产技术。原料选择时,对于普通原料需要在织造过程中采用特殊的组织结构,或在后整理阶段进行功能性整理;对于功能性原料,即热湿舒适类、卫生保健类、防护类,应按照面料的功能性要求进行选择。在织造技术的论述中表明,功能性针织面料的织造过程与普通针织面料没有差别,并按照面料特征将功能性针织面料分为3大类,即平素类、提花类及塑身类,从纬编和经编角度介绍它们常用的织造方法。最后分析讨论了功能性针织面料的后整理工艺及方法,即吸湿排汗易去污整理、抗菌整理、防紫外线整理、远红外整理、阻燃整理等。

With the more and more development of the processing technology of knitted fabrics,people begin to lay focus on their functions. This paper presents the producing technology of knitted functional fabrics in terms of raw materials,knitting technology and functional finishing. At present,the knitting used functional raw materials include thermal comfort type,hygienic and healthcare type and protection type. And the protective materials include anti -static fiber,ultra -violet resistant fiber,electro -magnetic shielding fiber and flame retardant fiber. In addition,the functional fabrics can be classified into plain and gray type,jacquard type and body shaping underwear. This paper introduces the knitting methods in terms of both warp and weft knitting technology. Special structures or functional finishing are necessary if the normal raw materials are employed. The common functional post -finishing usually includes moisture-absorbing,sweat-transferring and easy-cleaning finishing,anti-bacterial finishing,ultra-violet resistant finishing,far-infrared finishing and flame retardant finishing.