近代旗袍的造型变革以及裁剪技术

Molding development of Chinese dress and its cutting technology

通过对江南大学民间服饰传习馆与上海艺风堂博物馆馆藏传世旗袍的研究与分析,从早期旗袍的造型演变、近代旗袍的造型变革及裁剪技术的改良为切入点,描述由繁到简的装饰工艺,论述了由平肩连袖到斜肩接袖、由无省到有省的造型结构,指出近代旗袍是融合中西的经典之作。它成功地完成了从中式传统平面造型向西式立体造型完美蜕变的同时,终结了"人适应衣"的时代,开创了"衣适应人"的新时代。

Based on the research into various kinds of Chinese dress collected and kept in the Folk Costume Exhibition and Learning Hall of Jiangnan University and Shanghai Yifengtang Museum,this article introduces Chinese dress in terms of the molding development,innovation in cutting technology,decoration process from ″complexity to simplicity″,molding construction from ″square shoulder connected with sleeves to sloping shoulder connected with sleeves ″,and from ″without dart to with dart″.It points out that the modern Chinese dress is a classical work combining the Chinese style with the western one,successfully completing the transformation from Chinese traditional ″plane molding″ to western ″stereo molding″ and ending the period of ″adapting person to dress″ and opening the new era of ″ adapting dress to person″.