细特毛涤天丝自然弹面料的设计与生产

Design and production of fine natural elastic fabric made of wool and polyester and Tencel

介绍了毛涤天丝自然弹面料伸长及恢复机理、设计要点和关键生产控制措施。该产品利用毛纤维天然的弹性和可塑性,在设计中调整了原料配比,对纱线结构、织物紧度及纬经比进行了筛选,在生产中改进了后整理工艺并优化了工艺参数,对关键工艺采取了有效的控制措施。结果表明:工艺调整后,该产品弹性伸长率可达到9%～11%,恢复率可达到90%左右,各项物理指标符合服用性能要求。该面料生产过程符合低碳环保的理念。

The stretch and recovery mechanism, design keys and key controlling measures in the production of natural elastic fabric made of wool, polyester and Tencel are described. By utilizing the natural elasticity and plasticity of wools, the assorting ratio of raw materials is readjusted in design, the yarn structure, fabric tightness and proportion of weft and warp yarns are optimized. In production, the finishing process and the process parameters are all improved with key processes effectively controlled. The result shows that the elastic elongation rate of the fabric can reach 9 to 11 percent and the recovery rate can be back to about 90%. The physical index of the product meets the wearing property. The production process complies with the development ideas of low carbon and environmental protection.