纯毛强捻产品开发实践

Development and Practice of Wool Strong Twist Yarn Product

分析了纯毛强捻织物的特性,强捻毛纱及面料比低捻毛纱及面料具有良好的机械性能和服用性能,其耐磨性、抗顶破能力、透气性突出,水洗缩率小,可以考虑用于凉爽型针织面料的开发。由于该类产品的生产难点较多,从生产工艺设计以及整经、织造等几个主要工序,利用排列组合法进行生产实践,得出最优工艺和设备参数,生产出理想产品;强捻纱强度较低,经纱同向捻(Z×Z捻)和正反捻(Z×S捻)两种捻向的纱容易相互纽结,织造工序难度增大,但是通过不断摸索实践,使其得到很大的改进,织造效率由20%提高到70%。

This paper has analysed that the properties of pure hard twist fabric,strong twist yarn and fabric have better mechanical properties and wear properties,abrasion resistance, bursting resistance capacity,air permeability and the shrinkage after washing than low twist yarn and fabric,which can be considered for cool knitted fabrics. Because there is so much difficulties in production,the paper has produced by method of per- mutation and combination from product design process and warping,weaving and other major processes,the optimum parameters of technology and equipment,to pro- duce the ideal product;strong twist yarn has lower strength,the same to warp twist （Z ~ Z）and the positive and negative twist（Z x Stwist）two twist to the yarn easily intertwined,weaving process more difficult, but through trial and practice,having re- ceived a great deal of improvement,weaving efficiency by 20% up to 70%.