毛型制服织物在成衣制造中的力学性能评价

Evaluation of the mechanical properties of wool uniform fabrics in clothing tailoring

服装的成形加工和面料在低负荷下的力学性能密切相关。现有制服行业中各类面料标准往往只考虑各种极限条件下的取值,这些取值对服装成形并不具有指导意义。文章选取了15种冬季、春秋季和夏季用的行业制服用外衣面料,采用KES系统测试了低负荷下的力学性能,进行了归并整理,分析了其对服装缝制加工成形的影响及和面料规格的相关性。对于大批量稳定生产的行业制服面料,建议在标准中考核面料低负荷下的力学性能,尤其是弯曲刚度和剪切刚度,对面料厂的设计和织造以及服装企业的缝制加工成形均具有指导意义,避免以往通过手感来判断面料活络等性能存在的主观性。

Clothing formability is relative closely to the mechanical properties of fabrics under low load. There are values in extreme condition to evaluating the fabrics performance in various uniform fabric standards, and these values cannot provide helps to clothing processing. Fifteen outer uniform fabrics, used in winter and in summer and in spring-autumn, are chosen and the mechanical properties under low load of these fabrics are tested on KES. The relationship between the mechanical properties and clothing processing and fabrics parameters are analyzed. For uniform fabrics with large production lots and stable productions, the bending and shearing rigidity in low load should be evaluated in fabrics standards, which would benefit the clothing formability and fabrics design and also would avoid the subjectivity of evaluating the fabrics by handling.