帽领翻折后外观造型的样板因素分析

Factorial analysis on pattern and appearance of cap collar after turnover

采用两片式帽领的制图方法,实际制作帽领并进行拟合人台与人体穿着实验,研究了帽领下口线起翘量不同的情况下帽领翻折外观造型的变化情况,总结了它们之间的定性关系和定量关系。具体实验如下:采用控制变量法,控制帽高和帽宽不变的情况下,改变帽领下口线起翘量的大小制成成衣,进行人台与人体穿着实验后,采集相关数据并进行分析。结果表明:后中帽座高与帽领下口线起翘量、帽中线上下部分的差值与帽下口线起翘量呈线性反比关系,肩线覆盖长度与帽下口线起翘量呈线性正比关系。本研究可为帽领的样板设计提供必要的依据。

This paper studies the change of appearances of the cap collar after turnover under different conditions of raising quantity of the under line of cap collar and summarizes their qualitative relationship and quantitative relationship by using the drawing method of two-piece cap collar, practical making of cap collar and fitting experiment of dress form and human body wear. The specific experiment is as follows： change the size of raising quantity of the under line of cap collar and make ready-to-wear clothes by using control variable method while keeping the cap height and width unchanged, and collect relevant data for analysis after dress form and human body wear experiment. The result shows that the height of center back collar stand and the raising quantity of the under line of cap collar, the difference between the upper and lower parts of cap center line and the raising quantity of the under line of cap have a linear inverse relation; the covering length of shoulder line and the raising quantity of the under line of cap have a linear direct proportional relation. This research provides essential basis for the pattern design of cap collar.