女装胸围加放量与穿着方式及面料厚度的关系

Relationship between dress bust ease,wearing way and thickness of fabric

女装胸围加放量的设计是影响服装合体与否的关键因素。本文采用不同厚度的内衣、毛衣、外套,互相搭配组合成不同穿着层次的穿着方式,并测量同一部位胸围部位数据以及服装面料的厚度,分析了服装加放量的影响因素。根据实验数据运用逐步回归的分析方法来研究不同外套款式条件下,胸围加放量与空隙量、内外衣厚度之间的数量关系,建立穿着内衣和毛衣后服装胸围变化量与毛衣厚度和内衣厚度的数学模型,得出各种贴体程度下的服装胸围加放量与穿着内衣和毛衣时胸围变化量与外套面料厚度线性回归公式。

Dress bust ease is a key factor that affects clothing fit.This article analyzed the influencing factors and designing methods of clothing′s ease.In the experiment underwear,sweater and coat with different thicknesses were grouped into different combinations for different wearing ways,and the bust data and fabric thickness at the same position were measured of each wearing way.The experimental data were analyzed using stepwise regression analysis method to study the quantity relationship between bust ease and gap,and thickness of underwear and thickness of coat under the conditions of coats with different styles.A mathematical model of the relationship between bust ease,thickness of coat and thickness of underwear when wearing underwear and sweater was developed.A linear formula between bust ease,bust variation when wearing underwear and sweater,and coat thickness under different fitness was worked out as well.