由荧光和反射光谱研究胶原蛋白与抗坏血酸对老化肌肤的吸收速率和治疗效果

The Study of Absorption Efficiency and Restoring Effects of Collagen and Ascorbic Acid on Aged Skin by Fluorescence and Reflection Spectroscopy

胶原蛋白是皮肤组织中的结构性蛋白,其数量和健康关系到外表皱纹的生成与皮肤的老化现象;而抗坏血酸有良好的美白与抗氧化能力,可使肌肤外表更白皙亮丽和保持健康。由于胶原蛋白具有自体荧光,因此我们提出一个藉由皮肤光谱来检验胶原蛋白含量的方法,此检测法更具实时性与非侵入性。本研究使用胶原蛋白和抗坏血酸,涂抹于健康的、与有斑点、皱纹等问题的肌肤,以其荧光与反射光谱随时间的变化,归纳出胶原蛋白与抗坏血酸对不同部位肌肤的吸收难易与修复疗效。结果显示,皮肤会对适当浓度的胶原蛋白或抗坏血酸之吸收效果较佳;加上适当浓度的抗坏血酸,胶原蛋白可被有效吸收同时产生良好的除皱效果;而抗坏血酸之去斑效果也在此研究中明确证实。藉由此一系列科学性的实验,可确实验证美容保养品的作用,帮助爱美人士对化妆保养品的正确选择与正确使用,发挥最好的疗效。

Collagen is one of the main structural proteins in human dermis. The lack and atrophy of collagen induces the appear- ance of wrinkles and beginning of aging. L-ascorbic acid has significant effects on skin-whitening and anti-oxidation, which helps keep skin beautiful and healthy, respectively. With auto-fluorescence, the amount of collagen is in proportion to the strength of its fluorescence spectrum. Therefore, a new method is proposed to determine the content of collagen and the health of skin through the analysis of fluorescence and reflection spectra. Compared with conventional chemical analysis, this method needs less time, and is much more noninvasive. Solutions of different concentration of external collagen and L-ascorbic acid were applied on heaIthy, spotted and wrinkled skin in this study. By the time dependence of fluorescence and reflection spectra, the effects of skin absorption and restoration of collagen and L-ascorbic acid were derived, respectively. The experiment shows that the colla- gen or L-ascorbic acid solution of adequate concentration is best for skin absorption. Admixed with suitable concentration of L-ascorbic acid, the collagen solution was well absorbed and results in effect of smoothing wrinkles; the effect of L-ascorbic acid to clear up the spots was also demonstrated. By scientific explorations shown above, the restoration effects of cosmetic materials were validated, and people＇s confusion and myth about skincare products were avoided. Consequently, this study helps advance cosmetic industry.