丝/竹交织针织绒织物的开发

Development of silk and bamboo interwoven knitted velvet

利用桑蚕丝和竹纤维的特性优势,通过对原料配比、组织结构、规格设计及工艺试验数据等方面的研究分析,探讨了丝/竹交织针织绒织物的品种设计、织造、染整特别是拉绒整理的工艺和技术要点,提出了织物起绒以顺针为主、逆针为辅的技术方案,探讨了起毛次数、梳毛工艺及烫光工艺等与绒面效果的关系,成功开发出一面为桑蚕丝起绒,另一面为竹纤维纱不起绒的丝/竹交织针织绒织物。该研究对提高丝绸针织产品精深加工技术水平和拓展丝绸产品应用领域具有积极的现实意义。

By making use of advantages of mulberry silk fiber and bamboo fiber, through study and analysis on the material ratio, organization structure, specification design and process test data etc, this paper discusses process and technology key points of silk and bamboo interwoven knitted fabric in type designs, weaving, dyeing and finishing, especially raising finishing process, puts forward technical program of mainly fabric raising supplemented by reverse needle, and discusses the relations between the fluff times, combing process and nature luster finishing and the raising effects on knitted fabric, and successfully develops a product with one side of mulberry silk raising and the other side is silk and bamboo fiber without raising. This study has active practical significance in improving delicate processing technology level of silk knitted products and expanding application fields of silk products.