高仿棉天丝针织天鹅绒面料的生产工艺研究

Producing technology of high simulated cotton/Tencel knitted velvet fabric

从原料性能、织物技术指标、生产工艺流程3个方面确定高仿棉天丝针织天鹅绒的开发思路:以高仿棉纤维(Porel)纯纺纱为地组织原料,以天丝(Tencel)针织纱为面组织原料,通过织造、剪绒、染色和定形整理等工序开发针织天鹅绒面料。分别介绍了原料的预处理工艺、织造工艺、染整工艺,指出:首先采用包覆硅油蜡对高仿棉纯纺纱进行预处理以及采用高温蒸纱来改善天丝针织纱的稳定性和强力;为解决断纱疵点,对织机喂入部件进行改造,变被动输纱为主动输纱,同时调节断头自停装置的灵敏度,并合理设计导纱器张力;采用一浴两步法染色工艺路线,注意染化料的选择,严禁使用拒水性助剂;拉幅定形要注意工艺条件的控制,定形整理时采取负张力定形,以保证织物水洗尺寸变化率。

This paper studies the developing thought of high simulated cotton/Tencel knitted velvet fabric through property of raw material,technology indicators of fabric and producing technology process.The thought is using high simulated cotton pure fiber porel yarn and Tencel knitted yarn as raw material,through the process of knitting,cutting,dyeing and press finish etc.This paper introduces the pretreatment technology of material,knitting technology and dyeing technology respectively.Result shows that pretreatment of high simulated pure cotton yarn by coating silicone oil wax and improving the stability and strength of Tencel knitting yarn through high temperature yarn steaming are necessary;in order to solve the broken yarn defect problem,this paper improves the feeding device by changing passivity transmission to active transmission while adjusting the sensitivity of automatic stop motion and rationally design the yarn guide tension;this paper adopts one-bath two step dyeing technology while noticing the selection of dye that repellent auxiliaries are strictly prohibited;it is necessary to pay attention to the control of technological conditions during tentering and setting process and use negative tension setting to ensure the fabric size varied quotiety after washing.