官补提花机织物的开发

Development of Qing Dynasty Officer Robes Jacquard Woven Fabric

探讨清代官补提花机织物的开发过程。分析了我国古代官补服饰文化、设计纹样构图与织物结构,论述了纹制工艺处理要点,总结了织物效果和市场前景。指出:采用单色经多色纬、缎结构织制而成的提花织物,能较好地达到传统手工官补工艺织品的效果。认为:利用提花织机工业化方式生产官补织物替代传统手工缂丝、刺绣,可降低官补织品的成本,满足了设计及生产要求。

Development of Qing dynasty officer robes jacquard woven fabric was discussed. Qing dynasty officer robes costumes culture in ancient China, design draft and fabric structure were analyzed. Key points in processing were discussed. Fabric effect and market prospects were summarized. It is pointed out that effect of traditional manual Qing dynasty officer robes craft product can be reached better through adopting monochrome warp muhicolor weft, satin struc ture jacquard fabric. It is considered that Qing dynasty officer robes were produced by jacquard loom in industrialization style instead of traditional manual silk tapestry and embroidery, the production cost can be reduced, design and produc tion demands can be reached.