女性主体地位嬗变与服饰文化转型研究

Research on evolution of women′s dominant status and transformation of costume culture

任何历史阶段的女性主体地位与服饰文化状况有着深刻的内隐关系,女性主体地位重大的历史变化是女性服饰文化转型的根本缘由所在;阴盛阳衰的服饰性差发端于父系社会,是由于两性社会地位差别的出现,女性在父权制背景下被塑造的结果;随着社会结构的变化,女性主体地位得到扬升,由被动转向主动的服饰意志得以强化,一批具有革命性的服装设计师应运而生,开启了确立女性自主意识为前提,以女性诉求为核心的女性服饰文化第2个轴心期的新格局。

There is a profound implicit relationship between women′s dominant status and costume culture in any historical phase.A great historical change of women′s dominant status is a fundamental reason for the transformation of women′s costume culture.Costume sex differences of ′female flourishes while male declines′ originated from a patriarchy due to the emergence of different social status between the male and the female.It was a shaped result in the background of patriarchy.Along with the change of social structure and the ascension of women′s dominant status,costume consciousness from passiveness to an active turn would be strengthened,a great number of revolutionary fashion designers emerged as the times required,which turned on a new pattern of the second axial period of women′s costume culture with establishing women′s independent consciousness as the premise and women′s appeals as the core.