唐代文官朝服与公服使用礼仪变迁之探研

Research on public etiquette changes of the dress for paying respects to great event and the dress for official business of the civil official in the Tang Dynasty

唐代文官朝服为朝会之礼服,公服则是"办公"时所服之礼服。因二者服用繁冗、多不方便,故朝廷虽从古制,却在不断调整。初、盛唐时期二者为起自北方的袴褶服,后此服渐废,直接由来自胡族的常服所代替,而作为公服附属的上衣下裳制弁服则徒具令文。唐代文官礼服这种独特的"汉家制度、胡族衣裳"的胡汉双轨制是唐帝国结合自身现实认真调整的产物,是南北朝以来民族大融合及各种文明交汇的直接反映,更是唐代贵族政治格局影响的外在显现。

In the Tang Dynasty,the dress for paying respects to great event and the dress for official business of the civil official are According to rules for different occasions.However,for convenience＇ sake,two party are taken place by the Kuxi dress and the usual dress in fact,and the Bianfu Only exists in the institutional level.The ceremonial dress of the civil official of The Tang dynasty are ＂Han system,Hu clothes＂ dual-track pattern.They are the Tang Empire interior modulation products according to their own requirements,and they directly reflect National integration and civilizations,and they are the Tang Dynasty aristocratic politics affecting changes in the external manifestation.