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On the universal third order Stokes wave solution 被引量:2

On the universal third order Stokes wave solution
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摘要 This paper presents a universal third-order Stokes solution with uniform current. This solution is derived on the basis of potential theory by expanding the free surface and potential function in Fourier series and determining the Fourier coefficients by solving a set of nonlinear algebraic equations through the Taylor expansion and perturbation method. The universal solution is expressed upon the still water depth with the still water level as datum and retains a global perturbation parameter. The wave set-up term generated by the self-interaction of oscillatory waves is explicitly included in the free surface function. With the use of different definitions for the wave celerity, different water levels as the datum, different non-dimensional variables as the perturbation parameter, and different treatments for the total head, the universal solution can be reduced to the existing various Stokes solutions, thus explaining the reasons and the physical significance of different non-periodic terms in them, such as the positive or negative constant term in the free surface expression and the time-or space-proportional term in the potential function. This paper presents a universal third-order Stokes solution with uniform current. This solution is derived on the basis of poten- tial theory by expanding the free surface and potential function in Fourier series and determining the Fourier coefficients by solving a set of nonlinear algebraic equations through the Taylor expansion and perturbation method. The universal solution is expressed upon the still water depth with the still water level as datum and retains a global perturbation parameter. The wave set-up term generated by the self-interaction of oscillatory waves is explicitly included in the free surface function. With the use of different definitions for the wave celerity, different water levels as the datum, different non-dimensional variables as the perturbation parameter, and different treatments for the total head, the universal solution can be reduced to the existing various Stokes solutions, thus explaining the reasons and the physical significance of different non-periodic terms in them, such as the positive or negative constant term in the free surface expression and the time- or space-proportional term in the potential func- tion.
出处 《Science China Earth Sciences》 SCIE EI CAS 2013年第1期102-114,共13页 中国科学(地球科学英文版)
基金 supported by Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities (Grant No. 2010B02614) Natural Science Foundation of Hohai University (Grant No. 2009423511) National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 4176008) Priority Academic Program Development of Jiangsu Higher Education Institutions
关键词 universal Stokes wave solution uniform current global perturbation parameter SET-UP non-periodic terms Stokes波 三阶 非线性代数方程 自由表面 傅立叶级数 傅里叶系数 自相互作用 静水位
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