面料性能与垂荡领外观形态关系的研究

Research on the relationship between fabric performance and pleated collar shape

以垂荡领为研究对象,从外观和运动机能两方面选取指标,通过对25种不同面料的垂荡领实际外观形态的观察分析,研究面料性能与垂荡领外观形态的关系。通过面料性能和垂荡领外观形态指标的回归分析发现,影响垂荡领外观形态的主要因素是面料的悬垂性能、剪切性能、弯曲性能、表面性能。在面料自身厚度和重量的影响下,面料的剪切、弯曲、压缩、表面等性能协同作用共同体现面料中蕴含的美感,充分表达面料性能对领型的影响。

Targeting pleated collar, this thesis selects indexes from appearance and motor functions as well as observes and analyzes the actual appearance of pleated collar of 25 different kinds of fabric to study the relationship between the appearance of the pleated collar and the fabric performance. According to regression analysis of fabric performance and the indexes of appearance performance of pleated collar, it shows that the main factors affecting the forms of pleated collar lie in draping performance, shearing performance, bending property and surface property of fabric. With impacts of the thickness and weight of fabric, the synergistic effect of properties like shearing, bending, compressing and appearance can not only reflect the sense of beauty that fabric contains but also display the impacts of fabric properties on the shape of collar.