高弹针织女上装紧身原型纸样设计

Tight-fitting prototype pattern design of women's upper garment made of high elastic knitted fabric

针对针织服装设计原型法对于高弹力的针织服装难以控制样板尺寸变化的问题,通过立体裁剪的试验方法,测试了高弹性针织面料在不同规格人台和真人身上衣片各部位的数据,运用数理统计的分析方法,研究了紧身原型定寸的数学原理,获得了高弹针织女上装紧身原型纸样。通过实例证明,只需要根据面料的弹性和服装造型特点对原型纸样进行适当的数据变化,即可满足紧身针织服装合体性、舒适性及美观性的要求,为弹性针织面料服装纸样设计提供了更直接、更实用的模板。

Aiming at the problem that the prototype method of knitting dress designing has difficulty in controlling the changes of the sample sizes of knitted garments with high elasticity, this thesis tests the data of various parts of the cut-parts with high elastic knitted fabric on mannequin and human body with different specifications by the test method of three-dimensional clipping. In addition, it utilizes the analytical method of mathematical statistics to study the mathematics principle of the gapping of skintight prototype. In this way, it puts forward the pattern of the skintight prototype of women＇s upper garment mad of high-elastic knitted fabric. Examples prove that the requirements for fit, comfortableness and beauty of garment made of tight-fitting knitted clothes can be satisfied as long as we appropriately change the data of prototypical patterns according to the elasticity of fabric and the features of fashion styles, which provides more direct and more practical templates for the pattern design of garment made of high-elastic knitted fabric.