说“领抹”

Discussion on decorative collar

领抹在宋代文献中虽频繁出现,对其具体形制却并无明确描述。对于领抹的形制,目前学界有两种观点,一种认为领抹是与霞帔形制基本相似的直帔,分别在于霞帔只限命妇使用,而民间妇女则用直帔;一种认为领抹是宋代女性对襟衣衫上由领而下的二条长花边。通过分析宋人文献中的记载,结合相关出土实物,初步辩证了领抹的形制,认为领抹的形制是女性外衣衫子上的对襟长花边,而非披帛、帔子一类的独立服饰品。

The decorative collar appears frequently in documents of Song dynasty, but there ts no clear description for its specific shape. There are two views on the shape of decorative collar. The first view regards the decorative collar is a kind of embroidered capes for ordinary women, which are basically similar to scarves over ceremonial robe for ladies of nobles. The other view holds that decorative collar is two long laces from the upper collar to the bottom of women＇s front opening clothes in Song dynasty. By analyzing the documents of Song dynasty and combining with related unearthed clothing, this thesis confirms the shape of decorative collar and considers it as long front opening laces on women＇s clothes instead of independent accessories like silk capes or scarves.