袖窿浮余量变化研究及配袖分析

The Research of Armhole Surplusage Changes and the Sleeves Fitting Analysis

在圆装袖服装配袖中,袖窿的形态特征制约衣袖的结构和造型,而袖窿浮余量又是袖窿三维形态的一个关键制约因素。以东华原型为基础,采用平面与立体相结合的方法,研究袖窿浮余量变化与袖窿三维形态特征的关系并进行配袖分析,为袖窿三维模型的建立提供了数据支撑,也为衣袖结构优化提供理论基础。

The characteristics of armhole shape restrict the structure and shape of sleeves in circular cut sleeves, and armhole surplusage is a key restraining factor of 3D armhole shape. Based on Donghua garment prototype and combining the plane and draping methods, this paper studies the relationship between armhole surplusage changes and the characteristics of 3D armhole shape, and analyzes the fitted sleeves, which provides data support for 3D armhole mode and provides theoretical foundation for sleeves structure optimization.