衬衫领纸样的结构设计

Structure Design and Analysis of the Shirt Collar Pattern

针对衬衫领纸样结构的设计难点,本文借助服装CAD软件对衬衫领的结构设计进行研究。通过纸样实验,分析和比较了领座底线与领面底线由直线变为曲线后,所呈现的不同着装效果及领面和领底曲度的配比关系。研究结果表明,领底线是决定衬衫领型的关键,当领面曲度近似于领座曲度时,领面容量适中,领子的立起程度较强;当领面较贴紧领座时,领座和领面的宽度相差1cm,领面的下弯量约为领座上翘量的2倍,两者成正比。该研究为衬衫领纸样设计提供了理论依据。

The structure design of shirt collar, which is the technical difficulty in sheet pattern design, is studied with the help of garment CAD software. By way of pattern experiments, writer has analyzed and compared the different dress effect when collar stand bottom line and collar surface bottom line change from a straight line into a curve as well as the curvature correlation between the collar surface and stand. The study results show that collar bottom line is the key factor which determines the style of shirt collar. When the collar surface curvature is similar to curvature of collar stand, the collar surface capacity is moderate and the collar can stand more vertically, at the same time, the collar surface is more close to the collar stand and usually the width difference between collar stand and collar surface is lcm; The bending amount of collar surface is twice as many as the upturned amount of collar stand and they are in direct proportion. The study provides a theoretical basis for the collar pattern design.