涤纶长丝超仿棉经编织物的开发

Development of Polyester Filament Warp Knitted Fabric with High Simulated Cotton Appearance

介绍超仿棉涤纶长丝及其性能,阐述以66 dtex/36 f超仿棉涤纶长丝为原料,在特里科高速经编机上开发经编织物的生产工艺和结构参数,并对织物在整经、织造和染整加工过程的技术要点进行归纳和总结,最后对织物的耐磨性、透气性、抗起毛起球性能和悬垂性等服用性能进行测试和评价。结果表明:超仿棉涤纶长丝的强度、伸长率等力学性能均适应经编生产要求;由于棉感的形成是通过染色时的异收缩形成的,所以仿棉织物的密度一般不宜过高;涤纶长丝超仿棉经编面料有较好的耐磨性、抗起毛起球性能,优良的透气性、悬垂性和较高的顶破强力,在外观上有一定的棉感,基本能达到仿棉的效果。

The paper introduces the properties of high simulated cotton-polyester filament, and develops four kinds of warp knitted fabrics on Tricot high-speed warp knitting machine by using 66 dtex/36 f polyester filament. It also describes in detail the producing process flow, structural parameters and the precautions during warping, knitting and dyeing and finishing process. In addition, the paper tests and compares the wearing properties of these four kinds of fabrics including abrasion resistance, air permeability, anti-pilling and drapability properties and so on. According to the tested results, the physical and mechanical properties of high simulated cotton-polyester filament such as strength and elongation both can meet the requirements of warp knitting production; the density of fabrics should be controlled reasonably because of the cotton feel formed by different shrinkage during dying; the fabrics has good abrasion resistance, anti-pilling, air permeability, drapability properties and high bursting strength, which can bears the effects of simulated cotton appearance.