谈汉代丝织品上的卷云纹

Discussion on Curly Cloud Pattern on Silk Fabrics in Han Dynasty

卷云纹是汉代丝织品上运用最广泛的装饰纹样。汉代织物云纹最初表现方式是染绘和刺绣,云纹在丝织品的装饰中主要由长短粗细不同的、飘荡律动的线形来表现,其中既有如穗、如卉的卷云,也有如带、如山的长云。尽管卷云于东汉逐渐向长云转化,卷云纹也时常点缀于带状长云纹之间,其风格化的模式几乎成为汉代丝绸云纹的标志。在造型上,卷云纹的基本形式因素为弧边涡卷和内旋涡卷,整体造型较模式化,即具有如穗、如卉的总体特征,其造型对中国传统装饰纹样影响深远。造型的物象与意象分析表明,汉代如穗、如卉的卷云纹造型与所处时代的中国传统文化艺术有着密切的关联。

Curly cloud pattern is the most widely used decorative pattern on silk fabrics in Han dynasty. The initial manifestation modes of cloud pattern on Han fabrics are dyeing and embroidery. In the decoration of silk fabrics, cloud pattern is mainly manifested with lines with a different length and size, including curly cloud like fringe and grass and long cloud like strip and mountain. Though curly cloud gradually transformed into long cloud in the Eastern Han dynasty, curly cloud pattern is often adorned among strip long cloud patterns and its stylized mode almost becomes the symbol of Han silk cloud pattern. In terms of the form, basic form factors of curly cloud pattern are arc edge vortices and inner vortices. Its overall form is patterned, i.e. it has the overall feature of fringe and grass. Its form has profound influence on traditional Chinese decorative patterns. The image analysis of the form shows that curly cloud patter like fringe and grass in Han dynasty is closely related to the traditional Chinese cultural art.