天然彩色棉机织物的生态整理

Ecological Finish of Woven Fabric from Colored Cotton

对天然彩色棉纤维结构的初步分析发现 ,天然色彩存在于纤维次生胞壁内 ,发色基团与羰基有关。通过生态整理 ,可部分剥除纤维表面覆盖层 ,使天然彩色棉充分显色 ,并保持较好的色牢度 ;同时可起到去茸毛、除杂、柔软作用。经淀粉酶、果胶酶、纤维素酶协同生态整理 ,天然彩色棉机织产品有可能实现从种植到成衣生产过程的“零污染”,实现烧毛、精练、柔软三步合一 ,缩短生产流程。试验证明 ,绿色天然彩色棉机织物经生态整理后 ,色泽加深 ,除日晒牢度 3级外 ,皂洗、摩擦、汗渍牢度均可达到 4～ 5级。失重、强力损失小于常规处理 ;毛效可达到 11～ 12 cm/ 30 min;起毛起球可达到 4～ 5级 ;

On the basis of structure analysis of colored cotton, it is found that natural color is existed in the secondary cell wall and color group is in line with carbonyl. By means of ecological finish, the surface coverage of fiber can be partially removed, colored cotton developed and excellent color fastness also maintained, in addition to pile removing, cleaning and softening. After ecological and synergistic finish with amylase and pectase and cellulase, the whole manufacturing process from planting to tailoring of woven fabric from colored cotton can possibly realize zero pollution, integrated with singeing, scouring and softening in one step. Based on trials, it is showed that the finished fabric features deepened shade, less deweighting and loss in strength as well as better softness than conventional finish. Furthermore, the color fastness of soaping, rubbing and perspiration can all be reached 4~5 grade, except for light fastness 3 grade; capillary effect can be topped 11~12 cm/30min and pilling resistance 4~5 grade.