吸湿排汗功能性经编贾卡运动衣面料的开发

Development of Moisture Absorption and Sweat Transferring Functional Jacquard Warp Knitted Fabric for Sportswear

利用贾卡经编机可以在同一织物上形成网眼组织、薄组织和厚组织的结构,设计出一款吸湿排汗功能性经编贾卡运动衣面料。阐述了该运动衣面料的织造工艺,包括设备参数、原料选择、编织工艺参数、贾卡组织设计、效果图分析,以及精练、预定形、染色、定形等染整工艺。指出织造过程中应注意的事项:设置合适的贾卡梳送经量、避免布边穿双纱、控制车间温湿度,并给出了成品规格及实物图。该经编贾卡运动衣面料集舒适性、功能性、时尚性于一体,是一种理想的高性能运动衣面料。

The paper develops a kind of moisture absorption and sweat transferring functional jacquard warp knitted fabric for sportswear on jacquard warp knitting machine, which can produce the mesh, light or heavy struc- tures on the same piece of fabric. It introduces in detail the knitting process, including equipment parameters set- ting, the choice of raw materials, knitting technology parameters setting, jacquard pattern design and analysis of fabric effect, as well as the dyeing process including refining, pre-setting, dyeing and setting and so on. In addi- tion, it points out the precautions during the knitting process such as appropriate warp run-in of jacquard guide bar, no threading double yarns on the edges of cloth, control of temperature and humidity in workshop. Meanwhile, the product specifications and the fabric diagrams are presented. The jacquard warp knitted fabric for sportswear de- veloped in this paper bears good comfort, functions and fashion properties, which is a kind of perfect knitted fabric for sportswear with hizh-Derformance.