近代改良旗袍造型中的西方元素

Western elements in molding of modern modified cheongsam

以上海纺织博物馆和江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏旗袍实物为研究对象,对近代改良旗袍的基本形制进行了论述,并将近代改良旗袍按造型形制与细部结构细分为"基本型"和"摩登型"。通过对馆藏"摩登型"改良旗袍的基本形制、结构造型与细节设计的分析,指出近代改良旗袍是吸收西方外来服装造型方法的结果。通过收省、分割、装袖等西式造型方法,实现了在外轮廓造型上由传统的"A"型向"H"型再向西式的"X"型的转变。采用垫肩、拉链等西式服装辅料,辅佐主体结构实现了由离体到紧体、由平面到曲面的转变,说明近代改良旗袍是中西方服饰文化不断碰撞与融合的产物。

Taking the cheongsam in Shanghai Textile Museum and Jiangnan University＇s Chuanxiguan as the research object, this paper discussed the basic molding and workmanship of modern modified cheongsam which included ＂the basic style＂ and ＂modern style＂. Having analyzed the form and style, structural molding, and design details of cheongsam of modern style, it pointed out that western garment molding methods had been introduced into modern modified cheongsam, which was effected by western molding such as easing, cutting, set-in sleeve and so on, thus realizing the transformation of the outer profile from traditional ＂A＂ style to ＂H＂ and further to western ＂X＂. By the use of the shoulder pads, zipper, western-style clothing accessories, the transformation of the main structure from slack style to tight-fit and from plane surface to curved surface, indicating that modern modified cheongsam are the product of continuous colliding and merging of western and Chinese dress cultures.