摘要
畸形波是近10年海浪研究领域的热点问题。作为一种新认识的物理现象,其经历了发现—认识—确认的认知过程。畸形波生成机制的研究目前取得了较大的进展,波列演化的调制不稳定性被认为是畸形波生成最具可能的原因。畸形波的研究及认识仍存在一些根本性的问题,这些问题的解决是正确及深入探究畸形波这种海洋物理现象的基础。通过对畸形波研究中存在的一些基本问题进行阐述和分析,探讨解决这些基本问题的思路及方法,为畸形波的研究提供一些有价值的参考。
Freak waves have been a hot issue during the last decades in ocean waves＇ research. As a new physical phenomenon, it has gone through the progress of discovery-argumentation-acceptance. It has gotten a lot of developments in dynamical and kinematical research. The modulation instability of water waves is considered to be the most probable candidate for freak waves＇ occurrence. There are some fundamental questions that arise and need to be answered, which is important for the further research of freak waves with the fight answer or proper compre- hension. Some essential problems accompanied with freak waves＇ research are presented and some ideas to solve it are argued. It＇ s supposed to be a useful reference for further research of freak waves.
出处
《地球科学进展》
CAS
CSCD
北大核心
2013年第6期665-673,共9页
Advances in Earth Science
基金
国家自然科学基金项目"全球变暖背景下中国近海海平面季节特征变化研究"(编号:41006002)
中国科学院海洋环流与波动重点实验室开放基金项目"风浪涌浪能量聚合的畸形波生成背景研究"(编号:KLOCAW1302)资助
关键词
畸形波
波浪
海浪
调制不稳定性
Freak waves
Water waves
Ocean waves
Modulation instability
