吡啶甲酸反应基型活性染料对蚕丝织物染色工艺的探讨

Discussion on Dyeing Process of Silk Fabrics with Reactive Dyes Based on Picolinic Acid Reaction

采用吡啶甲酸反应基型活性染料雅格素藏青N—SG对蚕丝织物进行染色,研究了其在中性条件下对蚕丝织物的染色性能,讨论并明确了最佳的染色工艺。结果表明:温度上升,染料的上染率下降,而染料的固色率则随着温度的提高而上升,温度达到100℃时固色率最高;NaCl的加入有利于减少染料和纤维间的静电阻力,提高上染率;不加碱剂固色的情况下,染料质量浓度0.2 g/L时,最佳染色条件为NaCl质量浓度40 g/L,100℃染色60 min。雅格素藏青N—SG染蚕丝的皂洗色牢度达到4级,干摩擦色牢度达到4～5级,湿摩擦色牢度达到4级,各项色牢度均达到加工和服用要求。

Silk fabrics are dyed by reactive dye N--SG based on picolinic acid reaction. The dyeing property for silk fabrics in neutral condition is studied. Besides, this paper discusses and specifies the best dyeing process. The results show with the rise in temperature, the dye-uptake of the dye declines; the fixation rate of the dye rises with the increase in temperature. When the temperature reaches 100 ℃, the fixation rate reaches the maximum. The addition of NaCL contributes to reducing electrostatic resistance between the dye and fiber and improving the dyeuptake. Without alkaline agent, when the mass concentration of the dye is 0.2 g/L, the best dyeing conditions are ： mass concentration of NaCI： 40 g/L; 100 ℃, dyeing for 60 min. Washing color fastness when N--SG is applied reaches Level 4; dry rubbing fastness reaches Level 4 ~ 5; wet rubbing fastness reaches Level 4. The color fastness reaches processing and use requirements.