我国优秀速度攀岩运动员专项运动素质指标体系的构建

Study on the Construction of Speed Climbing Specific Movement Quality Index System for Excellent Athletes in China

近年来,我国速度攀岩发展迅猛,竞技水平已处在世界领先行列,但全国竞技攀岩却处于发展不均衡的状态;而且,国内外对于速度攀岩运动的研究也相当匮乏.为了给予教练员提供实用依据,该研究以全国攀岩专家、教练员和优秀速度攀岩运动员为调查对象,以江西应用技术职业学院青少年攀岩俱乐部的优秀速度攀岩运动员为测试对象;运用文献资料法、个案分析法、观察法、专家访谈法、问卷调查法、素质测试法、数理统计法、逻辑分析法等研究方法得出我国优秀速度攀岩运动员专项运动素质四大主成分:速度力量因子、快速协调力量耐力因子、柔韧因子和综合素质因子,并确定速度力量为核心因子,得出各级因子权重.同时还根据因子得分系数,建立了优秀速度攀岩运动员专项运动素质各因子得分和专项运动素质综合得分模型.

With the rapid development of Rock Climbing in China in recent years,today’s Speed Climbing level has joined the world leading ranks.But the development of athletic sports level in the domestic is unbalanced.The research of Rock Climbing is also deficient both in domestic and foreign.in order to provide some practical basis for the coaches,this research chooses the rock climbing experts,coaches and outstanding Speed Climbing athletes as investigation objects,the youth rock climbing club’s outstanding Speed Climbing athletes in Jiangxi application technology professional college as test objects to construct the outstanding Speed Climbing athletes sport quality index system from the methods of the literature material law,case analysis,observation,expert interview,questionnaire,quality testing method,mathematical statistics,logic analysis and others to get the four factors： speed quality of power factor,quick coordination strength endurance factor,flexibility factor and comprehensive quality factor;Among them,the speed strength was identified as the core factor.Also based on factor score coefficients,establishing the factor score and composite score model quality for excellent quality of speed rock climbing athletes.