魏晋南北朝时期裤装的演变与发展

Evolution of Pant-suits in Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern Dynasties

通过对文献资料(包括考古资料)的研究,探讨了魏晋南北朝时期裤装的演变与发展的历史,从而分析了其在不同的区域之中社会变迁与文化渗透之间的关系。在中国古代,服装在周礼的影响下有着严格的穿着要求,服饰文化的流行一直是由上至下的,而魏晋南北朝时期却是一个例外,特别是裤褶的广泛穿着,是在儒学思想最薄弱的乱世,突破了传统礼仪的束缚,产生了由外民族至汉族、由下层劳动人民到贵族阶层的流行形式。裤褶的流行是那个时代独有的服饰文化特征。裤装文化作为服饰文化的一个部分,对现代服装设计中分析服装流行趋势以及借鉴外来服饰文化有着相应的启发意义。

Based on data analysis （ including archaeological materials）, this essay discusses the development history of pants in Wet, Jin. Northern and Southern Dynasties as well as the relationships between social changes and cultural penetration. In ancient China, costume has strict rules under the effect of Etiquette of Zhou. The prevalent fashion of costumes was always from the top of society class to bottom ones, except for Wet, Jin, Northern and Southern Dynasties with the wide acceptance of pant-suits. Breaking the shackles of Etiquette, this fashion has been popular from foreign nations to Han group, from the working people to the upper class, growing in the disordered time with the least influence of Confucianism. Pant-suits is the specific characteristic of the costume culture in that period. As a part of costume culture, it has great inspiration for fashion analysis and reference in modern design.