交织对无缝内衣面料结构与伸缩性的影响

Influence of intertexture on construction and elasticity of seamless underwear fabrics

采用平纹添纱组织和N6上机密度设计织造了4组16种交织物,织物的面纱和地纱分别选择cooldry吸湿速干涤纶、Thermolite保暖涤纶、Tencel再生纤维及氨纶/锦纶弹力包芯纱。对织物的纵横向密度、面密度及厚度、拉伸伸长率及弹性回复率进行测试与分析,并采用一元方差分析交织对无缝内衣面料结构规格与伸缩性影响的显著性。结果表明,交织对织物纵横向密度、面密度及厚度、拉伸伸长率影响均十分显著,对织物弹性回复率影响不显著;织物密度、面密度、厚度及拉伸率较大的交织方式为面纱、地纱均为弹力包芯纱与非弹力纱间隔1根排列,或织物面纱为非弹力纱,地纱为弹力包芯纱。研究结果对无缝内衣的设计与开发具有一定的参考价值。

16 kinds（4 groups） of intertexture fabrics were designed and knitted with plain plating stitch and N6 looming densities in the program,using cooldry,thermolite,tencel and core-spun spandex/nylon yarns as the face yarn and the ground yarn respectively.The course count,wale count,surface density and thickness,elongation rate,and elastic recovery were tested.The influence of intertexture on the construction,specification and elasticity of seamless underwear fabric was investigated by analysis of variance.The results showed that intertexture has significant influence on the course count,wale count,surface density,thickness,and elongation rate but little effect on the elastic recovery of the fabrics.For obtaining fabric with greater surface density,thickness,and elongation rate,it is suggested that the way of intertexture be： core-spun spandex yarn and non-spandex yarn are arranged in an interval of 1 strand as the face yarn and the ground yarn,or non-spandex yarn as the face yarn and core-spun spandex yarn as the ground yarn.The research results provide certain reference for the design and development of seamless underwear.