19世纪末欧洲女装结构分析

Analysis of European Women’s Dress Structure at the End of the 19th Century

19世纪末的欧洲女装处于一个古典向现代过渡的历史时期,称之为S型时期。通过对S型时期女装版型结构资料的分析,运用CAD软件重新绘制、测量总结出女装结构特征,即:上衣片胸腰省量与裙片腰臀省量数值较大,显示出S形样式的造型特点;当袖窿弧线数值不变的情况下,通过观察袖片部分的袖山与袖肥比值,得出袖片肩部结构具有特殊的造型。

At the end of the nineteenth century, European women＇ s dress was in a transition period from classic to modem type, which was called the S-type period. Based on the analysis of the dress pattern structure data in that period and using the CAD software to redraw and measure the dress, the structure characteristics have been summed up. Namely, the value of thoracolumbar dart and waist-to-hip dart is large, which shows the shape characteristics of S-style. When the armhole curve value is not changed, based on the ratio of armhole height and sleeve width, it is concluded that the sleeve piece on the shoulder is of special pattern.