从敦煌出土丝绸文物看唐代夹缬图案

Clamp-resisting Pattern in Tang Dynasty from the Perspective of Silk Relics Unearthed from Dunhuang

针对用两块雕刻成凹凸对称的花板夹持织物进行防染印花的夹缬工艺。结合从敦煌出土的夹缬织物,发现夹缬图案主题一类是采用盛唐及中唐时期的花卉题材,可以将其分为:连叶朵花纹、宝花纹、缠枝花纹三大类;另一类图案主题是动物题材,有马、鹿、格力芬、鸟禽等。马、鹿和格力芬都是丝绸之路上十分流行的题材,而雁、鸟等禽鸟类在唐代中期之后官服上比较常见,到晚唐期更加流行。团窠花卉和动物题材图案在敦煌夹缬上的出现反映了当时唐代的文化交流。

Aiming at clamp-resisting technology where two concave-convex symmetrical clamps are used for printing,in combination of clamp-resisting fabrics unearthed from Dunhuang,this paper finds clamp-resisting patterns adopt flow theme in the flouring Tang dynasty and the middle period of Tang dynasty.They can be classified into three types： folium nelumbinis pattern,floral medallion and winding stem pattern;another type of patterns take animals as the theme,including horse,deer,Griffin,and bird etc.The horse,deer and Griffin were very popular themes on the Silk Road,while wild goose or other birds were particularly common on the robes after the mid-Tang dynasty and then became more popular in the late Tang dynasty.The floral and animal patterns on the clamp-resisting dyed silk from Dunhuanng reflect the culture exchanges in the Tang dynasty.