元明清的“特结锦”

"Special Samite" in Yuan,Ming and Qing Dynasties

通过分析元代初次出现的特结锦结构品种纳石失和明清类似组织结构的品种,研究了它们的织造技术工艺,总结了它们的共同特点,对比特结锦出现之前的辽式织锦和之后的妆花云锦,阐述了特结锦的优势在于摆脱了经地经花的经锦特有的粗糙图案,可以不像纬地纬花的纬锦那样平板,它的经面地组织直接可以作为图案的一部分,使绒纬组成的图案更加突出。特结锦的在锦类丝织品演变历史中有承上启下的作用。

This paper studies the weaving techniques,sums up the common characteristics and compares Liao semite and Zhuanghua semite before and after special semite occurred through analysis of special samite-gold semite and similar organization structure in Ming and Qing dynasties.Besides,this paper expounds the advantage of special semite is that it gets rid of rough patterns owned by warp samite.It can be not so flat like weft samite.Its ground structure of warp face can be directly serve as a part of the pattern so as to make the pattern composed of pile weft more outstanding.Special semite plays the linking role in the evolution history of semite silk fabrics.