聚酯/黏胶机织物的减量处理

Weight reduction process of polyester/viscose woven fabric

减量(WR)处理通常用来降低聚酯纤维的刚性、提高其弹性及柔韧性。处理黏胶需高度谨慎并采用专门技术,因为黏胶织物对强碱更为敏感。WR处理是在较高温度、强碱性条件下进行。研究发现通常对黏胶纤维有损害的WR处理适用于聚酯/黏胶(65/35)织物。结果表明:聚酯/黏胶织物的WR处理中,烧碱的使用能确保织物在色效率与更佳织物手感(即柔软性、弹性及良好光泽)方面的极大优势。WR处理后,织物表面变得更为光滑,织物起毛程度降低。此外,分散染料及活性染料染色前进行WR处理可得到更高的色效率。

The weight reduction （WR） process is generally carried out to reduce the rigidity of polyester as well as to increase the bounce suppleness of the polyester fabric. Viscose treatment needs high care and know-how, because viscose fabrics are more susceptible to the strong alkaline. The WR process is carried out in strong alkaline conditions with the use of caustic soda flakes at higher temperature. In this study, the WR process which is generally found to be dangerous for the viscose was applied to the polyester/viscose 65/35 fabric. It was ibund that the usage of caustic soda i.e. WR process of PV fabric, ensured considerable advantages in terms of color efficiency, better fabric handle i.e. softness and bounce and good luster. After the WR process, the surface of the fabric became smoother and the fuzziness of the fabrics decreased. In addition, performing a WR before dyeing with disperse and reactive dyestuff caused an increased color efficiency.