丝绸面料在服装加工中的关键技术研究

Research on Key Technologies of Silk Fabric in Clothing Processing

针对丝绸服装在加工过程中经常出现的疵病,结合实际生产,对丝绸类服装的款式结构、面料预处理、裁剪缝纫及整烫包装等环节中的关键技术进行了分析和研究。研究表明:在丝绸面料加工特性的影响下,服装款式造型宜追求柔和、轻盈和膨松,结构线宜简洁、精练、宽松;面料经预缩水处理可以保证产品规格的稳定;合理排料、铺布、裁剪,可以防止衣片色差、打滑、抽纱和熔黏;优化缝纫条件、缝口缝型设计及缝纫技巧等方面的技术,可以减少缝口钩丝、纰裂、缩皱。正确的整烫包装技术可以保持产品外观平整、颜色艳丽。该研究对生产高品质丝绸服装有一定的指导意义。

In allusion to defects of silk garments often occurring in the machining process, this research analyzes and studies key technologies in style and structure, pretreatment of fabric, tailoring, sewing, finishing and packing of silk garments in combination with actual production. The research shows that, under the influence of processing characteristics of silk fabric, the clothing style and shape should pursue for tenderness, lightness and bulkiness and the structure line should be concise and loose; pre-shrinkage treatment of fabric before production can ensure the stability of product specification; reasonable layout, spreading and tailoring can prevent chromatic aberration, slipping, yarn drawn out and smelting of cut piece; the optimization of sewing conditions, stitch closure seam type design and sewing techniques etc. can reduce snagging, stitch slipping and corrugating of stitch closure. Correct pressing and packing techniques can provide products with smooth appearance and bright color. This research has certain guiding significance for high-quality production of silk garment.