木棉花纤维在半精纺毛织物中的开发应用

The Development and Applications of Kapok Fiber in Semi-worsted Wool Fabrics

介绍了新型天然纤维素纤维——木棉纤维(水晶丝)在半精纺毛织物设计中的开发应用,从纤维特性、织物结构设计和工艺流程等方面进行了论述,重点介绍了染色和纺纱中的难点和技术改进。结论为:新型天然纤维素纤维中空达90%,具有极佳的保暖性,纤维强力极低,可染性差;设计了三种规格的混纺织物,用散毛染色的方法上染,新型天然纤维素纤维和羊毛纤维的染料分别为环保棉活性染料以及进口兰纳素染料;采用半精纺设备纺纱,从车间温湿度、梳毛速度、速比、隔距、捻度等几方面控制纺纱工艺;织造采用毕加诺GTX-8-R剑杆织机;通过合理控制后整理的pH值,保持了新型天然纤维素花呢的风格特征。经检验,该面料各项指标及色牢度均达到规定标准。

：A new type of natural cellulose fiber kapok fiber （Crystal） in the development and application of semi-worsted fabric design has been introduced. The fiber characteristics, design of fabric structure and processes has been discussed, highlighting difficulties and technical improvements in the dyeing and spinning. Conclusions for： 90% of new natural cellulose fiber is hollow, and it has good warmth retention property, low strength, poor dyeability. Three kinds of specifications of blended fabric have been designed. The dyeing method is hair dyeing, new natural cellulose fiber and wool fiber of dye respectively for environmental cotton reactive dyes and imports Lanna pigment dye; half worsted equipment spinning has been used, spinning technology has been controlled from the aspects such as workshop temperature humidity, comb hair speed, speed ratio, gauge, and twist; weaving made used Picanol GTX-8-R sword Rod weaving machine. Through rational controlling the f＇mishing pH value, a new natural cellulose fancy suiting characteristics is maintained. Upon examination, the fabric and color fastness of indicators have reached the required standards.