经编无缝无底提花连裤袜工艺设计

Technological Design of Seamless and Bottomless Warp Knitting Jacquard Pantyhose

针对经编无缝无底提花织物工艺设计比较薄弱的现状,以RDJ2/2双针床拉舍尔贾卡提花经编机为例,阐述了无缝无底提花产品的成形原理。在对无缝无底产品提花原理进行深入研究的基础上,在WKCAD4.2软件中实现了无缝无底提花织物的"漏针修正"和"自动连边"功能,并提出了利用该软件设计无缝无底提花连裤袜的方法,大大提高了设计师的工作效率。指出:该无缝无底提花连裤袜仅用4把半机号的贾卡梳反向对称垫纱编织而成,织物轻薄通透、花型精致、结构稳定、手感柔软,是无缝服装领域的新型产品,兼具时尚性与舒适性。

In view of the less work on the technological design of seamless and bottomless warp jacquard fab- ric, the paper describes in detail the shaping theory by taking RDJ2/2 double raschel jacquard warp knitting ma- chine as an example. On the basis of deep study, both the needle-missing rectification and automatic edge-joining functions are achieved by using the WKCAD2.4 design software, besides, the design method is given in detail, which can improve the efficiency of designer. It points out that the fabric knitted by four half-gauge jacquard guide bar with an opposite symmetrical lapping movement possesses light and breathable properties, delicate lace, stable structure and soft hand, which is a kind of new knitted product having both fashion and comfort features in the seamless garment field.