齐鲁民间大襟衫在婴装针织产品开发中的应用

Application of Qilu folk DaJin Coat on Development of Baby's Knitted Wear

首先对齐鲁民间服饰的款式、面料、结构等元素进行归纳与总结,然后通过对穿着大襟衫时的测体方式、手臂活动的分析,对比婴儿睡姿和婴儿手臂活动规律,表明婴儿服装在结构造型、空间设计、扣系方式等方面均可借鉴大襟衫的精髓。基于此,以大襟衫为例,将其与婴装的产品开发相结合,进行了两款具有典型代表性的针织婴童上装的改良设计研究。结果表明:采用前后片连裁方式设计的偏衫可减少衣身处的分割,保证服装的整体性;采用插肩袖结合腋下开口设计的透气半背和尚衫是一款腋窝透气性较强的功能性夏季婴装。

Based on the summary of clothing styles, fabrics and structure design of Qilu folk DaJin wear, the paper compares to the baby＇s sleep position and arm actions after analyzing the measurement methods and arm ac- tions, and points out that the key element of DaJin coat can be used for reference in the design of structure, space and tieing ways of baby＇s wear. And the improvement design of two new baby＇s knitted top wear with some representative is given by taking the DaJin wear as example, which combines the product features of DaJin and ba- by＇s wear. It shows that the garment division of jacket can be reduced to ensure the integrity of clothing; the half back open baby＇s wear designed in this paper is a new kind of wear with good air-permeability and functionality garment in summer, which uses raglan sleeve with underarm opening design.