食之戏:宋元演剧与食物的“假扮”美学

Playing with Food: Performance, Food, and the Aesthetics of Artificiality in the Sung and Yuan

中国文化活动中对食品的烹饪及其展示,本身就具有表演的成份。饮食文化和表演文化这两种文化活动时常是水乳交融的,之间没有明确的界限。本文详论中国的这两种文化活动之间更深层的历史及其美学关联。文中特别分析了在两宋期间,两者是如何伴随着商业与娱乐,在中心城市开封、杭州获得空前繁荣,及其对中国戏剧艺术发展的内在影响。

This article focuses on historical and aesthetical affinity between cultural spheres of foodways and staged performances in the Sung dynasty. This interrelationship was forged in the crucible of early urban centers, spurred by commercial development and the growth and proliferation of the food industry. The author demonstrates that food was part of performance, or to be more precise, one point of heavy density in a mixture of performances in which there were other dense spots, among which no clear boundaries could be discerned.