近代民间服饰中“文字”的艺术解析

Characters′ artistic exploration of folk costume in neoteric China

文字是人类用来记录语言的符号系统,是文明社会产生的标志。当"文字"作为一种装饰元素出现在服饰中时,不同于服饰上经常出现的植物、动物、人物等装饰纹样,它具有其自身独特的艺术魅力。以江南大学民间服饰传习馆收藏的近代民间服饰中的"文字"作为研究对象,首先是从"字"到"形"再到"艺术构成"的角度对其进行解析。首先概述了服饰中有关文字的起源与发展;然后参照江南大学民间服饰传习馆收藏的传世实物,对近代以来民间服饰中的"文字"进行分类、统计;归纳出民间服饰中"文字"首先作为"字体"的意义,其次是作为"纹饰"的涵义。最后,总结出"文字"在近代民间服饰中的艺术构成形式和艺术含义等。

Characters are symbolic systems used to record languages of human beings,and also serve as the mark of the emergency of a civilized society.Characters,as a kind of decorating element on costumes,have their special charm of arts,and are different from the decorative patterns,such as plants,animals,figures,etc.This article takes the neoteric costumes stored in Folk Costumes Museum of Jiangnan University as research objects,and analyzes both characters themselves and their forms and art compositions.Firstly,it makes a brief introduction to the origin and development of characters.Then it and makes classifications and statistics of the characters on modern folk costumes based on definite objects stored in Folk Costumes Museum of Jiangnan University.It sums up both the meaning of characters themselves and the meaning of characters as decorations on folk costumes,along with the art compositions and art meanings of characters on modern folk costumes.