固色和铁媒染对苏木染色丝织物颜色稳定性的影响

Influence of fixation and iron mordanting on color stability of silk fabric dyed with natural dye hematoxylin

通过测试染色织物的颜色指标值和色牢度,探讨苏木天然染料媒染染色柞蚕丝织物及经固色处理的丝织物的颜色稳定性。研究结果表明:媒染和固色均会影响染色织物的颜色和颜色稳定性;固色可增加染色织物在不同pH值水溶液中的颜色稳定性;铁媒染染色可明显提高织物的耐洗色牢度,但不能增强织物的色光稳定性;铁媒染和固色对苏木染色丝织物颜色的光稳定性和氧漂稳定性均有改善;在高温条件下,铁媒染和固色不能增加苏木染色蚕丝织物的颜色稳定性,但固色可使染色织物色光更加艳丽。

The color stability of tussah silk fabrics which were dyed with natural dye hematoxylin using iron mordant dyeing and fixing treatment was studied by testing the color indexes and color fastness of the dyed silk fabric. It was found that the color and color stability of the dyed fabric were influenced by both the mordant dyeing and color fixation; the color stability of the dyed fabric in aqueous solution at different pH values could be improved by color fixation; iron mordant dyeing significantly improved the color fastness to washing, but color stability, of the dyed fabric; except under high temperature conditions, iron mordant dyeing and color fixation treatment enhanced both the color fastness to light and color fastness to peroxide bleaching of the silk fabric dyed with hematoxylin; and color fixation made the dyed fabric more brilliant.