汉麻针织居家面料的开发

Development of Hemp Household Knitted Fabric

针对汉麻产品在穿着过程中的刺痒问题,对汉麻在针织居家面料上的应用进行研究。介绍了汉麻纤维特殊的物理、化学性能,汉麻纱线合股的工艺,以及"超棉"纤维在汉麻混纺纱中的应用;阐述了用其开发居家针织面料的编织、染整、涂料印花工序中的工艺创新和技术改进;并对面料的服用性能进行了测试。结果表明:异形涤纶"超棉"纤维加入到汉麻混纺纱中,对增强汉麻居家面料的吸湿和散湿性能,起到了促进作用;采用复合茶皂素工艺对汉麻居家面料进行染色前处理可以减少纤维损伤;采用磨毛工艺对汉麻短纤维进行处理,可以减轻纤维素酶的处理强度;选用亲水氨基硅油柔软剂可以提高面料的吸湿性能;工艺改进后所开发的汉麻针织居家面料,其各项服用性能指标均符合要求。

In terms of the problem of itchy sensation of hemp fabrics, the paper introduces the special physical and chemical properties of hemp fiber, the plying process of hemp yarns and the application of ＇highly simulated cotton＇ in hemp blended yams. It develops a new kind of hemp knitted fabric and also analyzes in detail the pro- cess innovation and technological improvement during the knitting, dyeing and finishing and pigment printing pro- cesses. Through the wearing properties testing, the results show that adding the ＇highly simulated cotton＇ of polyester with irregular hemp blended yarns can improve the moisture absorption and transferring properties; using the composite tea saponin for pre-dyeing process can reduce the damage of fibers; the sanding process can reduce the treatment intensity of cellulose; the hydrophilic amino-silicone oil softener can improve the moisture absorption properties of fabric. The test results prove that the various wearing performance index of this kind hemp household knitted fabric developed with the improvement technology can meet the design standard.