宽幅细特天丝贡缎面料的设计与生产

Design and production of wide width sateen fabric made of fine tex Tencel yarn

细特天丝纱线断面根数少,强力低,弹性好,毛羽多,膨润度高。因此,络筒工序应降低络筒速度,保证通道光洁,减少毛羽,降低卷绕密度;整经工序应降低张力,保证张力、排列、卷绕三均匀;浆纱工序要优选浆液配方,优化浆纱工艺参数,采用"小张力、低黏度、高回潮、复分绞"工艺,以改善浆膜完整性和提高剩余伸长率,优化片梭织造经位置线及开口参数和引纬张力,避免产生纬向疵点和开车痕,后整理避免折痕和"霜印"。

Fine tex Tencel yarn characteristic of less ends broken, lower tensile strength, good elasticity, more hairiness and high swellability should be winded at low speed to guarantee the passageway smooth and clean to reduce hairiness and packing density. In warping process, tension should be lowered with tension, yarn arrangement and winding uniform. In sizing processing, well selection of sizes and sizing parameters such as lower tension, lower viscosity, high moisture regain and re-split should be adopted to improve the integrity of sizing film and residul elongation. To optimize the design of the warp line position on projectile loom as well as the shedding parameters and picking tension to avoid weft defects and start marks is needed in weaving process. Finishing has to be used in improving the fabric appearance to solve fold marks ＆ frost marks.