精纺衬衫面料风格的客观评价与比较

Objective evaluation and comparison for worsted shirt fabric style

选取3种衬衫面料作为研究对象,采用KES-AUTO-FB风格测试仪测试了它们在低负荷作用下的拉伸、剪切、弯曲、压缩和表面性能等16个指标,通过对测试指标的分析,对3种面料的风格进行了客观比较。结果表明:丝光羊毛与柔丝蛋白纤维混纺的衬衫面料手感柔软,表面光滑,弹性好,质地轻薄,具有全毛和毛涤衬衫面料不可比拟的优越性,更适合于做春夏衬衫。

Three shirt fabrics were selected as subjects of the study. The basic mechanical properties such as tensile, shear, bending, compression and surface properties of these fabrics were measured at low-load condition by using the KES - AUTO - FB system. The three fabric styles were analyzed by the indicators of the tests and compared objectively. The results show that the handle of the fabric made from mercerized wool and silk protein fiber is soft, its surface is smooth, its elasticity is good, and the texture is light. The shirt fabric made from mercerized wool and Rose fiber is better than the others. It is more suitable for the sDrin~ and autumn shirts.