中药染料小檗碱染真丝织物及其性能研究

Study on Dyeing of Silk Fabrics with Traditional Chinese Medicine Dye Berberine and Its Properties

采用中药染料小檗碱对真丝织物进行生态染色，探讨染色温度、时间、染液pH值、小檗碱质量浓度对织物K/S值的影响，并测试其染色色牢度、抑菌性能、紫外线防护系数（UPF值）、紫外线透过率及小檗碱紫外线吸收光谱。结果表明，在温度65℃、时间60min、染液pH7条件下，染色织物K/S值最佳，小檗碱对真丝织物的性能具有较好的提升。染色真丝织物耐摩擦色牢度与耐干洗色牢度均可达4级以上，但耐皂洗色牢度较差。当小檗碱质量浓度为0.8g/L时，染色真丝织物对金黄葡萄球菌与大肠杆菌的抑菌率分别可达85.57%、80.61%。小檗碱对250~350nm紫外光有广泛的吸收能力，其染色真丝织物具有优异的抗紫外线功能。

This study dyes silk fabrics ecologically with traditional Chinese medicine dye berberine, discusses the influence of dyeing temperature, time, pH value of dye liquor and mass concentration of berberine on K/S value of fabrics and tests its color fastness, antimierobial property, UV protection factor （UPF） value, ultra-violet transmission and berberine ultraviolet absorption spectrum. The result shows that K/S value of dyed fabrics is optimal and berberine can well improve silk fabrics under conditions of temperature 65 ~C, time 60 rain and dyeing liquor pH of 7. The color fastness to rubbing and color fastness to dry cleaning of dyed silk fabrics can reach over grade 4, but the color fastness to soaping is poor. When the mass concentration of berberine is 0.8 g/L, the antibacterial rate of dyed silk fabrics to staphylococcus aureus and escherichia coli can respectively reach 85.57% and 80.61%. Berberine has an ability of widely absorbing 250 - 350 nm UV-light. Silk fabrics dyed with berberine have excellent UV resistance function.