女装领部结构的创意研究

An investigation on creative designing of collar structure for women's clothing

对女装领部的3大类创意结构设计案例进行分析,在符合工艺合理性、穿着舒适性及造型美感的前提下,论述了结构创意设计的方法和可操作性。通过对结构设计中起关键作用的数据进行分析,总结出3个方面的结构创意设计方法,即在女装领部结构的层次设计中形成造型阶梯感的制图方法、控制不规则领部造型的活褶展开方法,以及提高领部造型和结构设计灵活度的区域模糊设计方法。领部结构的创意方式和制图准确性可以有效提高女装企业设计实践的效率,对丰富女装造型设计思维,提高整体造型美感起着至关重要的作用。

Based on analysis of the three categories of creative structural design case in women collar, this article discusses the methods of creative structural design and their operability while meeting the prerequisite of technological rationality, wearing comfort and molding aesthetic. Through analyzing the data and formula that play a key role in the structural design, three methods concerning the structural creative design were summed up, that is, drawing method-showing a sense of terrace in the layer design of collar structure of female＇ s wear ; flexible pleat expanding method for controlling the irregular shape of the collar; and regional fuzzy design methods for improving the flexibility in shape and structure design of collars. Creative ways and cartographic accuracy can improve the efficiency of corporate design practice, enrich the methods of shape design in women＇s clothing, and plays an important role in improving the whole aesthetic feeling.