高山汉服饰艺术探析

Inheritance,absorption and variation:morphological study of Gaoshan Han's clothing art

高山汉是汉族中的一个特殊的族群,其服饰也独具特色。经过对江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏高山汉服饰的研究可以发现,高山汉服装沿袭了汉族传统"上衣下裳"的形制和平面造型的艺术结构;配饰不仅保留传统的艺术表现形式还吸收了周围少数民族的艺术元素;服饰纹样以花朵纹为主,同时结合宗教、鸟兽、梯田、文字等多种纹样;服装色彩方面以蓝色和黑色为主,装饰色彩主要为红色。分析结果表明,高山汉服饰的整体风格除保留了汉族传统的造型艺术外,既加入了本族群的创新又吸收了周围少数民族服饰艺术的精华,形成了区别于汉族主体地区的服饰风格,展现出高山汉人们独特的审美观念和精神面貌。

Gaoshan Han is a special group of Han people, their clothing is also special. It can be seen that Gaoshan Han＇s clothing follows the Han＇s traditional wear customs of ＂ in a shirt or coat on the upper and a skirt on the lower＂ and graphic design art; accessories not only retain the traditional art forms also absorb the surrounding minority art elements; clothing patterns are dorminated by flowers, and include religious images, birds, beasts, terraces, characters and other patterns; and blue and black are the chief color tone, with red for decoration. The whole clothing style inherits the Han＇s traditional clothing culture, integrates their own innovation, and absorbs the essence of surrounding minorities, thus forming their unique style and showing the Gaoshan Han＇s unique aesthetic concept and mental attitude.