珠宝与奢侈品关系研究

Research of Relationship between Jewelry and Luxury Goods

珠宝与奢侈品的关系尚不明确,珠宝所具有的审美价值、经济价值和稀有性等特征属性是否赋予其成为奢侈品这一问题在珠宝学界和业界没有清晰的定论。从多学科角度研究奢侈品内涵和本质特征并构建奢侈品属性特征的五维度模型,利用该模型比较探讨珠宝与奢侈品的关系,明确珠宝商品属性。通过比较发现珠宝是奢侈品的良好载体,可以直接成为奢侈品。除此之外,为珠宝产品注入奢侈品元素,使更多珠宝产品能够进入奢侈品核心区域。最后,针对目前珠宝产业低水平竞争、产品同质化等难题提出建议。

The relationship between jewelry and luxury goods is unrevealed, and people ha- ven＇t reached agreement whether jewelry properties, such as economic and aesthetic value, rarity and durability, endow jewelry with the luxury priorities. In this paper, luxury goods were studied from multiple dimensions to clarify the definition and essential attributes. Com- parison between jewelry and luxury goods was made to find out their relationship, which en- hanced understanding of jewelry product characteristics, laid theoretical foundation for the industrial research and furthermore, provided guideline to the jewelry marketing. Although luxury goods had been studied from different aspects, it was proposed that five dimensions were extremely important, namely economic, sociological, consumer-behavioral, marketing strategy and luxury management dimensions. The authors put forward a five-dimension mod- el （invisible economic value, consumption expectation, luxury marketing strategy, experi- ence of priority and emotion and social function）, or ICLES model of luxury goods and ap- plied it to comparison of jewelry and luxury goods and discussed the special attributes of jewelry. The comparison in invisible economic value dimension shows that the value of jewelry is high and satisfies people＇s aesthetic demand, which distinguishes them from ordinary commodities. Besides, the previous research shows that the income elasticity of jewelry consumption is greater than 1, which indicates the commodities of jewelry fulfill consumers＇ high level need. Both luxury goods and jewelry are rare or inherently relatively, due to natu- ral resource constraint or control. It is found that jewelry have properties resembling the luxury goods, which leaves a positive impression on consumers. Social dimension showed that with the flush of jewelry in the market, the price decreases, which is harmful to their consumption social function. When people tend to believe the cheap jewelry will damage their social image in the public, jewelry will be away from core luxury area. Comparisons from di mension of experience of priority and emotion show that jewelry are precious and rare, howe vere consumers are not ready to perceive their value and priority they should have and con- sumption is influenced. Precious jewelry of top quality, design and high price can offer con sumers aunique experience and special satisfaction, and enterprises should focus on design and customers＇ needs. However, Chinese jewelry enterprises are still weak in those aspects. Luxury marketing strategy dimension analysis reveals that jewelry enterprises should elevate the product design and marketing strategy to cover more jewelry in the core luxury goods ar- ea. Dimension of consumption expectation from a luxury specialty＇s perspective, shows that customers expect fabulous experience of consumption, with combination of quality, emotion, culture, rarity, design and technique. Jewelry possess many special characteristics, such as rarlty stable sembl goods nature, long time of formation and culture endowed by countries. All those form a consumption expectation and ensure customers＇ interest. Jewelry have properties re- ng luxury goods in certain aspects, which is an advantage of entering core luxury area. Through the comparison between jewelry and luxury goods, it is found that three char acteristics of jewelry, namely beauty, durability and rarity can have corresponding parts in luxury goods. However, to majority of jewelry, they do not have the sufficient conditions to enter core luxury goods zone. Marketers should work around five dimensions to elevate their characteristics, which will fulfill customers＇ need in term of luxury goods＇ consumption. Considering the reality of Chinese jewelry market, this paper proposes some suggestions to avoid the bottle neck of development. First, jewelry enterprises should research and de- velop new products to infuse artistic elements into them. Second, enterprises should employ rich resource of Chinese culture, craftsmanship, old-trade-name etc, to create more added value. Third, enterprises should re position themselves, launch the luxury strategy and allo cate the resources effectively to create luxury brand equity, which is crucial for enterprises to achieve sustainable development.